The Legend of

The Burger Lab: How to Make Perfect Thin and Crisp French

Date of publication: 2017-08-25 00:05

I'm gonna come right out and say something that I'm sure you won't all openly agree with: McDonald's french fries are great. At their best, they are everything a french fry should be: salty, crisp, light, and not greasy. Granted, you get the occasional odd franchise that lets'em sit under the heat lamp for a couple hours too long, but on the whole, I find it remarkable that the bigwigs have discovered a way to create a frozen fry that even a one armed eyeless chimp has trouble screwing up. And I know, because they've got one working the fry station at the franchise on my corner.

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My objective just became much clearer: in order to get my fries ultra crisp, I'd need to find a way to strengthen their pectin before allowing their starch granules to burst.

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The plan involved me printing out a fake list of items needed for a Scavenger Hunt sponsored by "The Simplot Foundation." A "Mr. Simplot" had endowed an annual prize for the winning team of the scavenger hunt, which would be used to fund the "research projects of the members of the winning team each year." (Members also had to belong to the Harold McGee Society and Order of Brillat-Savarin).

The George W. Woodruff School of Mechanical Engineering

Technological improvements in Ni-Ti metallurgy have generated a new supermetal, commercially termed M-wire. Engineers can identify the desired phase-transition point between martensite and austenite and produce a more clinically optimal metal than traditional Ni-Ti itself. Studies have shown that M-wire technology significantly improves the resistance to cyclic fatigue by almost 955% compared to commercially available 75/59 Ni-Ti files. 65 The good news is that reducing cyclic fatigue serves to clinically decrease the potential for broken instruments.

Kenji, you put forth an excellent challenge I enjoy both challenges and your food writing immensely, so I came up with an excellent plan that worked the first try.

I had pre-printed a list of items for said made up "Scavenger Hunt" (I basically Googled "Scavenger Hunt Lists" and added "Frozen McDonald's french fries".)

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Fries that comes straight out of the fryer are almost always perfectly crisp. The true test of a great fry is whether or not it remains crisp and edible a few minutes later after its been sitting on your plate. The bendy fry pictured above fails that test.

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That's when I thought—perhaps there is another way to strengthen pectin without having to rely on some fickle enzyme (I've never liked enzymes anyway), and it struck me: apple pie.

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Fries that are too dark or are spotty have an offputting burnt flavor that distracts from the potato. Light golden but perfectly crisp is how I want my fries to be.

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